Are you happy? ro/eng

December 02, 2013  •  1 Comment

(RO)

Why are you not happy? Just relax, enjoy.  

Ganduri din Iordania:

In desert exista oameni stresati?  Doar daca au e-mail, o tabara de condus, tabara de beduini si turisti, aceleasi stele, sau altele, dupa ce-si schimba pozitia. Doar steaua polara e fixa fiind de ceva vreme punct de orientare pentru caravane.

Corporatia beduinilor: se cresc de mici in tabara, depun munci repartizate ierahic in general pe varsta, cresc, pleaca la scoala, se mai intorc sau nu. In afara corporatiei: nu se duc la munca in fiecare zi, se plimba de colo colo, fumeaza tigari de foi la apus, se uita la stele, au o baie cu priveliste, cresc animale, traiesc fara curent electric, sau apa curenta.

Desi vorbesc aceeasi limba, beduinii au un dialect separat, ei pot sa-i inteleaga pe cei de la oras in timp ce viceversa nu e valabila. Beduinii sunt o populatie aparte, traiesc in triburi in desert, egipteni, sauditi, etc. Linistea de acolo, stelele,  cand desertul e loc de joaca de la inceput, beduinii se intorc. Fac o facultate, Isi iau o nevasta, doar una pentru mai putine probleme, dar se intorc. Sunt altii care odata ajunsi acolo, nu mai pleaca. Desertul are viata lui iar oamenii de-acolo s-au invatat sa-l respecte - la Bucuresti natura e un standard al aerului de respirat,  numarului de copaci taiati, deseurilor reciclate- desertul e desert: nu se stie cum o sa fie maine, temperatura cel mai probabil calda, uscata, cu vant, sau mai putin. Dar poate fi si furtuna, tot timpul a fost vant, a zburat nisip peste tot,  in mancare, papuci, in ceai, si-n farfurii. Apa calda nu e, doar de la soare, noaptea frig, nu ploua niciodata, iar cand ninge e sarbatoare. Rar, in ianuarie, o zi, zapada de peste noapte, ziua dispare in 5 minute.

 Masa in desert e un picnic permanent. 

 Nomazii de pe drum, triburi sau comunitati mici, cateva familii, dar nu in desert, ci mai degraba cultivatori: rosiile de vanzare la marginea drumului si agricultura cu irigatii, tehnologie germana.  Comunitatile sunt la o distanta considerabila, Lawerence' house si magazinul de suveniruri, cu ceai in mijlocul nimicului, masina care cara apa, si beduinii moderni cu pick-up truck aglomerate cu turisti. Poti sa faci dune board, sau hiking, in limbaj cunoscut, aici e pur functional. Pantalonii scurti ar fi de evitat, unde moda e rochie lunga, material de calitate, nimic contrafacut sau plastic, desi femeile beduin lipsesc, niste  rochii agatate arata ca la un moment dat au fost acolo. Altfel traiesc in sat, lucreaza la visitor’s center, conduc din umbra o afacere moderna a turismului, sau promoveaza arta locala. Aceleasi rochii, de data asta acopera si fata, impecabil croite din materiale scumpe sau doar de calitate, l-ar face pe Tom Ford invidios. Cojocul de camila, lung, esarfa(وشاح) pe cap, ochelarii de soare, sandale, sa circule nisipul, adaptat la tehnologie, beduinul de azi e cool. Mirosuri dulci, ambra, musk, intepatoare anesteziaza si imbata. Turistele blonde apreciaza. In desert cel mai bine e ca nu te gandesti la nimic: absolut nimic, toate gandurile se evapora, dispar in infinit. Doar pentru asta merita. In rest totul e desert.

Beduinii au un cod moral probabil valabil si in armata, aici varianta pasnica, desi sculatul devreme culcatul la fel, face parte din rigoare.N-ai voie sa nu fii happy, e-n fisa postului. 

Identitatea beduinilor se pastreaza in ceaiul beduinilor- cu menta si cuisoare, iar cultura comertului se vede in khan’ul din desert construit pe la anul 800.

O poveste cu primarul regiunii Karak: Pentru primar castelul era singura atractie, drept care isi facuse un hotel in care tinea mortis sa ne cazeze.Dupa un ceai si multe tigari in benzinaria in care am oprit pentru indicatii, ospitalitatea devine forta majora in cazul oaspetelui strain. De unde atata condescendanta? strainul? comertul?ospitalitate? Asa cum il percep ca strain si vice versa e valabila, cu o limita foarte subtire o data ce ne imprietenim. Un ceai cateva tigari si conversatii neinteligibile, limbajul ne spunea s-o tulim cat mai repede, cu putin teatru si false promisiuni, in spiritul jocului.

Iordanianul retras din armata regasit in parcare, pe king’s highway zona barajului, sus, cu privelijte prilejuind un spectacol tuturor celor care se opresc la o cafea, dar si un supliciu fiului cu care salasluia, in parcare, extrasezon - un fel de iarna lor nici pe de parte irana pe care o stiu, cu 4 anotimpuri, _un cort cu toate cele, bucatarie, living, cort separat pentru baie si altul pentru dormitor. Petul, Max zace vis-a-vis de drum, legat cu un lantz chiar de stanca, perete de antrenament zilnic pentru khaledul generic. Altfel ne-a oferit magie si joc in 15 minute, demonstratii si veselie. Isi vindea sufletul. Cu plata la nivelul sufletuluii fiecaruia. I-as fi dat mult pentru performance, in Iordania preturile nu sunt mici.

La marea moarta, senzatia de mort din nume razbate si e greu de dus. Bazait de muste, multe muste sunt singurul lucru viu de-acolo, care as fi preferat sa fie mort. O data pe an, inainte sa vina frigu, se aduna la -400m toate mustele din lume.

Nu se’nghesuie nimeni la baie, cand e un plutit caraghios, cu grija sa nu ajungi pe burta, altfel ustura ca dracu, toate ranile, nu  stiu daca se vindeca. Peisajul beige, monoton si invecinarea apropiata cu Israelul nu e semn bun. Politia, armata, supravegheaza. Camere, binocluri, poltia supravegheaza tot. What do you want?

Rimeaza cu why are you not happy? Intreaba poltistul pentru turisti de la petra.  Pai sa vezi c-am fost luat cu japca cu un cal si un ghid, desi eu am platit, am ajuns in varf si era frumos am vazut de sus, desi nu asta vroiam neaparat. Dar ce vroiai in 2h sa vezi, nu tot? uite tot deodata, nu asta ai vrut? What do you want? I want my money back. Cam simplu pentru asa o poveste frumoasa. It’s a missunderstanding, au repetat constant. All of the money back? mai negociem putin ca parca a fost frumos, si caii s-au chinuit, si oamenii sa ne faca happy, fie 25, din 100. Plecat su senzatia de invins, desi oarecum castigasem, sau nu neaparat.- castigul era sa fi fost happy dupa cum repeta copilul ghid vorbitor de engleza si nu prea.

Cum sa vizitezi un sit (PETRA) care necesita cateva zile in cateva ore ? Bonus : oboseala si un cost astronomic. Pana la urma s-a transformat intr-o noua experinta calare … Situl merita efortul si banii, am ramas cu o senzatie de neterminat … totul pe fuga.. inchis deja peste tot… la iesire intampinat de micii teparii… urlete si politie, totul trebuia sa fie bine dar na uneori sunt si neintelegi, versiunea politiei.. negociat paguba si fiecare cu drumul sau … pacat. Cu toate astea gustul ramane bun.

Calaritul camilei ... cand cineva propune asta ar fi de verificat care va fi timpul petrecut in sa si ... saua, altfel ajungi cu rosaturi si bataturi in cele mai neasteptate si neplacute locuri...

 

CAND COMPANIILE SUNT OAMENI !

Subiect: Serviciu clienti

 

Departamentul unde a avut loc situatia de rezolvat: relatii cu clienti

 

Mesaj:

Buna ziua, va scriu in speranta unui ajutor. Datorita ofertei companiei dumneavoastra 100E catre diverse destinatii, am achizitionat doua bilete 27.11, 23:55.

De ce va dau toate detaliile? pentru ca e ziua lui Andrei, si mergem la Amman. Zborul trebuia sa fie cu o zi inainte dar a fost devansat cu o zi. Astfel ziua de nastere la multi ani si toate cele, se va desfasura pe aeroport, in avion..etc. Rugamintea era  daca personalul poate fi instruit sa-i ureze la multi ani, eventual o sticla de sampanie la bord, pe care mi-o asum s-o achit. 

 

On Monday, 25 November 2013, 8:48, Customer Service <customer.service@tarom.ro> wrote:

Buna ziua,

Va rog trimiteti-mi codul de rezervare si numele sarbatoritului

O zi buna

Customer Relations Office

 

pahare  de sticla, sampanie alb, sec, invelita in servet, si La multi ani! 

 TAROM -omul sfinteste locul- zbor spre Amman 23:55, 28 nov.2013

 

PS. Iordania in cifre :

Bucuresti - Amman / Amman - Bucuresti = TAROM 99 € / pers

Viza obtinuta pe loc de la ambasada din Bucuresti = 38 € / pers

2 nopti dormite in avion / masina / parcare / intersectie

2 nopti in desert la WADI RUM

1 noapte la Marea Moarta

Masina inchiriata : 125 € = Hyundai I20 1.1 / Benzina 1 € / litru

Cca 1200 km. 3 controale ale politiei, o data interactiune cu armata.

 

(ENG)

Why are you not happy? Just relax, enjoy.

Thoughts from Jordan:

Are there stressed out people in the desert? Only if they have e-mail, a camp to manage, a Bedouin and tourist camp, same stars, or different ones, after changing position. Just the North Star is fixed and a guide for the caravans for some time now.

The Bedouin corporation: they grow up in the camp, doing chores hierarchically distributed generally based on the age, they grow up, go away to school and come back or not. Outside the corporation: they don’t go to work every day, they walk around, smoke cigars at dusk, watch the stars, they have bathrooms with a view, grow animals, live without electricity or running water.

Although they speak the same language, Bedouins have different dialects, those who live in the desert can understand the city folk, but not the other way around. Bedouins are a special kind of people, they live in tribes in the desert, Egyptians, Saudis etc. The silence out there, the stars, the desert as their playground from the beginning is bringing them back. They go to college, find a wife, just one for less trouble, but they come back. Others who get there never leave. The desert has its own life and people there learned to respect it – in Bucharest nature is a standard of the air you breathe, of the number of trees cut, of the recycled waste – the desert is the desert: you don’t know how tomorrow’s gone be, temperature most probably high, dry, windy or not. But there can also be a storm, wind has blown all the time, the sand flies everywhere, in the food, in the tea, in the slippers and in the plates. There’s no hot water, only sun heated, at night it gets cold, it never rains and it’s party time when it snows. Seldom, in January, it snows overnight and the snow is gone in 5 minutes in the morning.

Lunch and dinner in the desert are always a picnic.

Nomads on their way, tribes or small communities, a few families, not in the desert but rather farmers: tomatoes for sale on the side of the road and agriculture with irrigation systems thanks to the German technology. Communities are at considerable distances from one another, Lawrence’s house and souvenir shops where tea is sold in the middle of nowhere, the water carrying car and the modern Bedouins with their pickup trucks loaded with tourists. Dune boarding and hiking have here pure functional roles. Shorts should be avoided as here the new black are long dresses made out of quality fabrics, nothing cheap or plastic, although the women are nowhere to be found, some hanged dresses are proof they were at some point in time here. Otherwise, they live in the village, they work at the visitor’s centre, they run incognito a modern tourism business or they just promote local art. Same dresses, this time also face covering, perfectly tailored out of expensive or just very good fabric would make Tom Ford jealous. The long camel fur coat, the head covering scarf (وشاح), sun glasses on, sandals so that the sand flows out, adapted to technology today’s Bedouin is cool. Sweet, powerful smells of amber and musk make you dizzy and sleepy. The blonde female tourists appreciate this. The best thing about the desert is that you think of nothing, absolutely nothing, all thoughts evaporate, they disappear in the infinity. It is worth if only for that. Other than this there’s just desert.

The Bedouins have a moral code which is probably the same also in the military, here just the peaceful version, although waking up and going to bed early are part of everyday life. You’re not allowed to be unhappy, it’s in the job description. The Bedouins identity is kept in their tea – mint and pimento and their culture of commerce is seen in the desert khan, built around 800 AD.

A story about the mayor of Karak region: for him the castle was the sole touristic attraction, so he built a hotel where he insisted to accommodate us. After a tea and lots of cigarettes smoked in the petrol station where we stopped for guidance hospitality becomes force majeure when a foreign tourist is concerned. From where does so much condescendence come from? The stranger? The commerce? The hospitality? As much as I see him as a stranger as he does me with a very thin limit once we befriend. A tea and some cigarettes smoked during unintelligible conversations, the situation was telling us we should get on our way as soon as possible, using a bit of acting and false promises for the game’s sake.

The army retired Jordan man found in the parking lot high on king’s highway near the dam, where the view is spectacular for all those who stop for coffee but a torment for his son who lives with him in the parking lot during off season – some kind of winter, but nothing compared to the winter I know, the one that comes with a four seasons climate –in a tent fully equipped with kitchen, living room, separate tent for bathroom and another one for bedroom. Their pet, Max, lays across the road, chained directly to the cliff which is everyday training wall for the generic Khaled. Other than that he offered us magic, playful demonstrations and joyfulness during 15 minutes. He’s selling his soul. Paid as rich as the audience’s souls. I would have paid a lot for his performance and Jordan is not a cheap country.

At the Dead Sea, the feeling the name creates is real and hard to ignore. Flies buzz, lots of flies which are the only living thing there, although I would have preferred they were dead. Once per year, before cold weather comes, all the flies in the world gather at 400 meters below sea level.

Nobody is eager to take a bath since this means just floating ridiculously on your back, being careful not to roll over on your belly ‘cause every scratch you have on your body stings like hell and I don’t know if they really heal. The flat, beige view and the vicinity of Israel are not good signs. The police and the army are watching. Surveillance cameras, binoculars, the police watches everything. What do you want?

It rimes with why are you not happy? Ask the tourist policeman in Petra. Well, you see, the guide dragged me by horse, although I’ve paid, we got to the top and it was nice, but this was not really what I wanted. Didn’t you want to see everything in 2 hours? Look, it’s everything all at once, isn’t this what you wanted? What do you want? I want my money back. A bit simple for such a lovely story. It’s a misunderstanding, they kept repeating. All of the money back? Let’s negotiate a bit more, ‘cause it wasn’t so bad after all and the horses worked hard and the guys too to make you happy, ok, 25 out of 100. I left with the feeling that I have lost, although I had won in a way, or maybe not. The winning was being happy, as the under aged, English sort of speaking guide kept telling us.

How to visit a site (Petra) in a few hours instead of a few days? Bonus: exhaustion and sky-high costs. All in all it became a new camel riding experience... the site is worth the effort and the money, but all I got is a feeling of undone... everything on the run... everything closed already... the exit crowded by the small swindlers... shouting and police, everything should have been fine, but, well, as the police put it, sometimes there are misunderstandings... the loss was negotiated and we all got on our separate ways... it’s a shame. And despite that the taste of it is pleasant.

When someone proposes you to ride a camel, check how long will you be in the saddle and the saddle itself, otherwise you’ll get soar skin and blisters in the most unexpected and unpleasant places.

 

WHEN THE COMPANIES ARE PEOPLE!

Subject: Customer care

 

The department where the story happened: Customer Relations Office

Message:

Hello, I am writing to you hoping for your help. According to your offer of 100 Euro for any destination I purchased two tickets for November 27, 23:55.

Why do I provide these details? Because it’s Andrei’s birthday and we’re flying to Amman. The flight should have been one day prior to his birthday but it got delayed one day. So the birthday, the congratulation and everything will take place on the airport, in the plane and so on. I would like to ask you to instruct the personnel to wish him happy birthday, maybe have a bottle of champagne on board, which I will pay.

On Monday, 25 November 2013, 8:48, Customer Service <customer.service@tarom.ro> wrote:

Hello,

Please send me the reservation code and the name of the birthday boy.

Have a nice day

Customer Relations Office

 

The outcome: champagne glasses, white, dry champagne wrapped in a napkin and “Happy birthday!”

TAROM– people make the place worthwhile – Amman flight 23:55, 28 November 2013

 

P.S. Some figures about the trip to Jordan:

 

Bucharest – Amman / Amman – Bucharest = TAROM 99 Euro/pax

Visa for Jordan granted on the spot by the embassy in Bucharest = 38 Euro/pax

2 nights we slept in the plane/car/parking lot/intersection of roads

2 nights in the desert at Wadi Rum

1 night at the Dead Sea

Car rental: 125 Euro for a Hyundai I20 1.1/Petrol 1 Euro/litre

Cca 1200 km, 3 police checks, one interaction with the army.

 

Comments

1.Amalia Elmasry(non-registered)
Splendid jurnal de calatorii, splendide descrieri!!! Pozele super!
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