Burma ro/eng

February 04, 2013  •  Leave a Comment

(RO)

Burma a fost pana la urma: Bangkok - Yangoon - Mandalay - Bagan - Inle Lake - Mandalay - Bangkok.

Greu de inteles … mai ales intr-o saptamana...

Preambul. In Myanmar nu toti dolarii sunt dolarii…. doar cei denumiti in Bangkok, Myanmar dollar… primul schimb valuar din dolari US in dolari US dar acceptati de Burma… suna interesant…

Medicina de frontiera. Yangon - Mandalay.

Haos in Yagoon ? Dupa Bangkokul tuk-tukurilor si al scuterelor aici liniste deplina, sunt interzise … undeva intre India si Thailanda minus sa zicem cca 25 ani…se monteaza primele bancomate… stupa aurita, interesant dar mai interesant poate a fost un bar cu un ciudat concurs de miss pigmentat cu momente muzicale …

 

marile provocari veneau… ce asteptasem cu nerabdare sa se intample… THE ROAD TO MANDALAY. 

Tren de noapte, totul pare a fi perfect.. numai sunt paturi… ce poate sa se intample daca stam 15 ore pe un scaun ??…vagon restaurant, bere, cald afara geamuri deschise la maxim, old fashion … peisaje rural- medieval … aah remarcasem ca nu e cea ma lina sina … sa nu fim carcotasi…

 

s-a terminat intr-un frig neverosimil si intr-un soi generalizat…cu dureri si icnete printr-un somn care mai mult a lipsit… unde a acceleratul de Baia Mare... bine ca s-a terminat ! 

Vin la scadenta doua probleme evitate pana atunci : unde stam ? ce facem aici ? … raspunsul vine nesperat sub forma unui suedez care ne arunca intr-un papuc si ne duce la un hotel? unde au si camere? libere un dus? dubios si plecam prin praf si claxoane spre rau si de acolo cu o barca spre o varianta locala si mai veche a catedralei maintuirii neamului, cea mai mare stupa din lume, Mingun … neterminata … crapata … nici clopotul nu au putut sa-l ridice … frumos loc, interesante povestile… un inceput de infectie ? farmacie ? spital ? nu exista … o vizita la un camin de batrani cu o singura asistenta si vreo 100 de pacienti … am luat din antibioticele primite ca ajutoare din te miri ce colt de lume … am donat bani, neclar daca ajuta sau nu, mai degraba nu…. seara incepe la 5 cu pene de curent ceva halucinatii … mai tarziu prima experienta pe taxi-scuter ca pasager… n-as mai repeta … a doua zi ferry-ul pana la Bagan.

Pe rau in jos. Orasul cu 2000 de temple.

Turisti de toate natiile dar de o singura (60+) varsta pe ferry… liniste… pace … plictiseala ? … dupa trenul de noapte nu sunt plangeri prea multe … 

Cum sa faci in 200 de ani ceva mai mult de 2000 de temple ? Poti vedea la Bagan, orasul care acum e doar un urias camp (vreo 100 de km patrati) presarat cu temple… doar ele au razbatut vreo 8 secole.. 

Dar pana acolo, unde se poate manca ? un restaurant pe malul apei suna minunat ! care apa ? care minune ? e frig, prea frig, bate vantul si e intuneric … bonus: un scandal cu un taximetrist educat la scoala garii de nord… castigam noi !!! …dar unde e farmacia moderna / occidentala ? … e sub forma unui chiosc… au tot ce trebuie ? da ! inainte de culcare rezervat bilet de avion, old school, la receptie… dupa 20 de minute un nene apare cu bilete scrise de mana … speram sa fie pe bune …

A doua zi, vizita…. nu se poate decat cu o ricsa si neaparat incepand inainte de rasarit … ok ! plimbare, temple poze… temple…. chiar daca numai sunt functionale descaltatul obligatoriu… se cumpara slapi… privelistii impresionante dar fara sa poti indica ceva special… special este ansamblul…. daca am fugit dupa rasarit trebuia sa incheiem fugind si dupa apus, noi si restul turistilor …

…dubii legate de medicamentele cumparate seara …. poate totusi e ceva serios … mana incepe sa semene cu ce a lui Hulk doar ca rosie … hmm … seara halucinatia deja clasica si o plimbare prin satul adormit deja de la 7… gainile, aici sunt petrecaretele !!!

The Big Lake

Dupa un zbor Bagan - Mandalay - Heho in care descoperim ca deja toti europenii se cunosc intre ei din alte intalniri la diversele situri turistice … un drum de cca 50 km cu masina si promisiunea unui spital ajuta… cazare are wifi si o carte in romana !!! … cartea stiam de unde provine dar wi-fi parea ca vine din filme sci-fi !!

Cat despre spital, am avut de ales. ROSIE ? NEAGRA ? spitalul public ? cabinet privat ? hai sa vedem ce e cu privatul ca statul Myanmar parea cam precar in general … un cabinet cu perdea in loc de usa, un batranel binevoitor dar cam alarmat de ce vede …

 

se prescriu si se primesc pilule …. sunt bune ? sunt fake ? o sa vedem !… oricum trebui sa revenim pentru control in fiecare zi la 5 … din tara dupa o convorbire la un colt de strada se recomanda dublarea dozei …. asta e … dar pana maine cand va fi plimbarea pe lac ce naiba se poate face ?…. plimbare cu biciclete !! singurul vehicul pe care-l putem conduce legal in Myanmar … in ce directie ? catre o crama nemteasca !!! prima oara cand ne propunem sa bem vin nemtesc …dar cine stie … stiam, vinul nemtesc nu e de cautat nici la capatul lumii !! … mai e si un izvor termal …. hm.

Plecare pe lac, dimineata, dar ce mai e dimineata cand oricum te culci la 8 seara … o imensitate de apa adanca de cativa centimetrii cu sate lacustre separate pe bresle, tesatori, fierari, bijutieri, un templu plin de pisici … un mix la limita dintre turistic si autentic … gradini de legume, evident si ele lacustre … ultima atractie, apusul … dar deja frigul si frisoanele ne fac sa-l abandonam… pana la urma e doar soarele care se reflecta in apa !! … consultatie direct in germania !! via facebook !… hmm pana la urma nu e chiar asa de rau ca in cateva zile vom fi din nou in secolul XXI …!!!

Inapoi !

Dupa inca un zbor, ajunsi din nou in Mandalay pentru zborul spre Bangkok, aruncam un ochi sa vedem un celebru pod, U Bein … o afacere ciudata : cumperi bufnite captive ca sa le eliberezi… suplimentar experienta suprema pe doua roti : comanzi un taxi, vine un scuter si …. mergem trei pe el … de nerepetat ! Trezitul la 6 nu pune nicio problema avand in vedere ca deja sculatul la 5 se facea fara ceas… o tentativa de urca cateva poze pe un site se termina cand cade curentul ...

Mi-am adus aminte ca am uitat : fara telefon mobil …. fara card … rata de schimb valutar mai buna pentru hartia de 100 $ fata de ce de 20 $ … obiceiul mestecatului / fumatului de betel cu dintii si strazile pline de sange… o mancare undeva intre India si Thailanda dar in portii de inspiratie bizantina ca dimensiune …. avionul care face escala si poti cobara la o tigare direct pe pista… barbatii cu fuste … discutia despre Aung Sun Suu Kyi avuta cu un taximetrist din Yangoon… generatoarele pentru penele de curent … aeroportul nou din Mandalay in care nu era nimic, doar cafeneaua care era direct pe jos si se gatea la butelie …

PS. Vesnice multumiri doctorului din Nyamgshwe si asistentei din Migun !!!! cu cel din Germania ma descurc personal ! 

 

(ENG)

Burma was after all: Bangkok - Yangoon- Mandalay - Bagan - Inle Lake - Mandalay - Bangkok.

Hard to understand... especially in just a week...

Preamble. In Myanmar not all dollars are dollars... only those named in Bangkok, Myanmar dollars... the first money exchange from US dollars in Burmese accepted US dollars... it sounds interesting...

Frontier medicine. Yangon – Mandalay.

Chaos in Yagoon? After the Bangkok of tuk-tuks and scooters here is absolute silence, those are forbidden... somewhere between India and Thailand minus, let’s say, 25 years... here are the first ATMs installed... the golden stupa, interesting, but more interesting was a bar that had an odd beauty contest pigmented with musical moments...

The big challenges were on their way... what I have been impatiently waiting for... THE ROAD TO MANDALAY.

A night train, everything seems perfect... there are no more free beds...what’s the problem if we sit for 15 hours??... dining car, beer, hot outside, windows wide open, old fashion... rural-medieval sights... ooh, I notice that this not the smoothest train track... let’s not be bitchy... it all ended in an unbelievable cold and a general... pain and gasps during a sleep which mostly lacked... where is the Baia Mare train... good thing it’s over!

We have to face two long avoided issues: accommodation? What we’ll do here?... the answer comes in the shape of a Swedish guy who throws us in a pickup truck and drives us to a hotel? Where there are available rooms? With shower? Shady but we leave through dust and honks to the river and from there by boat to the local version of the cathedral of people’s salvation, the biggest stupa in the world, Mingun... unfinished... cracked... not even the bell was raised... beautiful place, interesting stories... a start of an infection? A pharmacy? A hospital? There’s no such place... a visit to a senior nursing home where there’s a nurse to 100 patients... I took the antibiotics received as charity from who knows where... I donated money, not certain if it helps or not, rather not... the evening starts at 5 o’clock with electricity outages and some hallucinations... later my first experience as a passenger on a scooter-taxi... I wouldn’t do it again... the next day the ferry to Bangan.

Down the river. The city with 2000 temples.

Tourists of all nations but the same (60+) age aboard the ferry... quiet... peace... boring?... after the night train there’s nothing much to complaint about...

How is it possible to build 2000 temples in 200 years? You can sightsee in Bangan, the city that now is just an empty field (some 100 square kilometres) peppered with temples... only those lasted through 8 centuries...

But until there where can we eat? A restaurant on the water’s edge sounds wonderful! What water? What wonder? It’s cold, too cold, the wind blows and it’s dark... bonus: a scandal with a taxi driver educated in the train station... we win!!!... but where’s the modern/western pharmacy?... it’s in the shape of a kiosk... do they have everything we need? Yes! Before bed time we book the plane tickets, old school, at the reception... after 20 minutes an old guy comes with the hand written tickets... hopefully they’re genuine...

The next day, the sightseeing... only by rickshaw and mandatory before sunrise... ok! Strolling, temples, pictures... temples... even if they’re abandoned, you have to take off your shoes... you can count the flip flops... impressing views but you can’t point at something particular... the whole combination is particular... after chasing the sun rise we had to chase the sun set too, together with the other tourists... the medicine bought last night seems fishy... maybe they’re ok... my hand starts to look like Hulk’s but red... hmm... in the evening the already usual hallucination and a stroll through the sleeping village at 7 o’clock... the chickens are the party animals here!!!

The Big Lake

After a flight Bagan – Mandalay – Heho where we notice that all Europeans know each other from meetings at different touristic sites... a 50 km drive and the promise of a hospital... accommodation with Wi-Fi and a book in Romanian!!!... we knew where the book came from, but the Wi-Fi seems to be coming from sci-fi movies!!!

Regarding the hospital, we had several options. RED? BLACK? Public hospital? Private practice? Let’s see how’s the private practice because Myanmar seems in a bad shape state wise... an office with a drape instead of a door, an old guy alarmed of what he sees... medicines are written on a recipe... are they genuine? Are they fake? We’ll see!... we have to come for check-up every day at 5 o’clock... we receive the recommendation from home, after a call in the corner of the street to double the dose... that’s it... but until tomorrow when we have planned the trip on the lake, what can we do?... a bicycle ride!! The only vehicle we can legally drive in Myanmar... where to? To a German bar!!! The first time we plan to drink German wine... but who knows... we knew, German wine is not drinkable even at the edge of the world!! There’s also a hot spring... hm.

Lake trip in the morning, but what’s morning when you go to sleep at 8 o’clock in the evening... endless water only a few inches deep with villages specialised in different trades, weavers, blacksmiths, jewellers, a temple full of cats... a mix between touristic and genuine... vegetable gardens, also on the lake... the last attraction, the sun set... but already the cold and the shivering make us abandon it... bottom line it’s just the sun reflecting in the water!!... a physical exam in Germany!! Via Facebook!... hmm, after all it’s not that bad, in a few days we’ll be back in the XXIst century...!!!

Back!

After another flight, we’re back in Mandalay, waiting for the flight to Bangkok, we take a look at the famous bridge, U Bein... an odd business: you buy captive owls so that you can release them... additionally the supreme experience on two wheels: you order a taxi and a scooter comes and... we ride three people... unrepeatable! The 6 o’clock awakening is alright taking into account that we’re awake at 5 without the help of a wakening clock... a try to upload some pictures on a website ends when the power fails...

I remember: no mobile phone... no credit card... the exchange rate is better when you have a 100 USD bill then a 20 USD bill... the habit of chewing/smoking betel with the teeth and the streets full of blood... some food between India and Thailand but in byzantine sizes... the flight that lands and you can go for a smoke right on the tarmac... men dressed in skirts... the talk about Aung Sun Suu Kyi with a taxi driver in Yangoon... the power generators for power failures... the new airport in Mandalay where there’s nothing, only the café where you sit on the floor and they cook on a gas tank...

P.S. Eternal thanks to the doctor in Nyamgshwe and the nurse in Migun!!! With the doctor in Germany I’ll deal personally!

 

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